How-to build a DIY ladder stabilizer

Why a DIY Ladder Stabilizer Could Be the Smartest Thing You Ever Build

Let’s be honest — if you’ve ever climbed a ladder and felt that tiny, heart-skipping wobble, you know the kind of fear I’m talking about. One wrong shift in balance, one shaky surface, and suddenly your simple task feels like an Olympic balancing act. I’ve been there too — halfway up, clutching the side rail, whispering to myself, “Don’t move too fast, don’t lean too far…” Can you relate?

That’s exactly why a DIY ladder stabilizer can be a total game changer. This little piece of equipment doesn’t just make your ladder sturdier — it makes you feel more in control, more confident, and honestly, a lot safer. Whether you’re cleaning gutters, painting a two-story wall, or fixing that one loose shingle that’s been bugging you for months, a ladder stabilizer gives you that much-needed peace of mind. And here’s the cool part — you can build one yourself at home, with tools you probably already have.

When I first discovered that you could make your own stabilizer, I thought, “Wait, seriously? I don’t have to spend a ton of money to stop my ladder from shaking?” And yes — it’s true. With a bit of creativity, some sturdy materials, and a few hours of effort, you can craft a stabilizer that rivals many store-bought options. Plus, there’s something incredibly satisfying about climbing your ladder knowing that the stability under your feet is the result of your own handiwork.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk through everything you need to know about building a DIY ladder stabilizer — from understanding why ladders wobble in the first place, to choosing the right materials, assembling your stabilizer step by step, and making sure it’s safe and reliable. Along the way, I’ll share tips, real-world advice, and a few lessons I learned (sometimes the hard way).

So, grab your notepad, take a deep breath, and get ready to turn that uneasy ladder climb into a rock-solid, confidence-boosting experience. Because once you’ve built your own stabilizer, you’ll never look at your ladder the same way again.

Understanding Ladder Stability & Why a Stabilizer Helps

The physics of ladder tipping and slipping

Some basics first (promise, not too boring). A ladder leans against a wall (or rests against something), and there are forces at play: gravity, friction, and torque. If the pivot point at the bottom doesn’t resist enough sliding, the ladder can slide outward. If the top isn’t secured, it can swing away. Add a little lean, uneven ground, or an accidental push — and things go bad.

A stabilizer works by increasing how far apart the two top contact points are (spreading them), or by anchoring or stiffening the top so it resists twisting or sideways forces. That means less risk of that “ladder slamming away” moment when you shift weight.

Standard safety rules (angle, three-point contact, etc.)

These are your ladder commandments:

Use the 4-to-1 rule: for every 4 units up, 1 unit out. That gives you about a 75° angle. Too shallow and it slides out; too steep and it may tip backward.
Maintain three points of contact: always two feet and one hand (or two hands and one foot) on the ladder.
Don’t stand on the top rung (or top two rungs) — that’s where tipping risk is highest.
Before climbing, check that the ground is stable, level, and non-slippery.
Secure the ladder’s top and bottom if possible (tie it, anchor it, or have someone hold it).

These are not just rules people made up — regulations like OSHA require that ladders be stabilized or secured when used on unstable or uneven surfaces.

What a ladder stabilizer (or standoff) does

A ladder stabilizer (also called a standoff) is a device you attach near or at the top (or sometimes mid) of your ladder so that:

It increases lateral stability (less side-to-side rocking).
It holds the ladder off delicate surfaces, e.g. gutters, siding, so you don’t damage them.
It spreads the contact points — so the ladder has a wider base at the top, making tipping harder.
It clears obstacles like eaves, overhangs, or trim so your ladder can sit flush against a wall beyond bumps.

Because of these functions, a stabilizer is often a must when you’re working on gutters, siding, or when the wall surface is uneven.

Situations where a stabilizer is especially helpful

Cleaning or installing gutters (so you don’t crush or bend them).
Working around eaves or overhangs — you need clearance so ladder doesn’t press against roof line.
Tall extension ladders, where small wobbles get magnified.
Uneven or slightly unstable walls (brick, stucco) — spreading helps stability.
When you sometimes can’t secure the ladder at the top, or no one can hold the base for you.

From what I’ve seen (on user forums), plenty of folks say that once you try a stabilizer, you don’t want to go back.

Types of Ladder Stabilizers / Standoffs (Commercial + DIY Approaches)

Before building, it’s smart to survey what’s out there. This helps you pick a style that makes sense.

Commercial stabilizers — pros & cons

Pros:

Engineered for strength, tested in labs.
Often adjustable, with rubber pads, corrosion resistance, etc.
User-friendly locking mechanisms, quick attachment.
Warranty and safety certification (for some brands).

Cons:

Cost — might be expensive or require shipping to your area.
May not exactly match your ladder’s width or style, so might have to improvise.
Sometimes they are bulky or heavy for small ladders.
If weight is an issue, the built commercial version might add more bulk than necessary for your task.

That said, commercial ones provide a reference for what’s safe. Use them as benchmarks (e.g. the length of arms, pad size) when designing your DIY.

Common DIY strategies

Here are several DIY stabilization styles people use. Choose one that fits your ladder, skill level, and materials.

Spread bar / cross-arm stabilizer

This is like a horizontal bar welded or bolted across the top of the ladder, with “arms” extending left and right. It effectively makes a “T” or “Y” shape at the top. The arms push against the wall farther apart, increasing lateral stability.

L-bracket wings

Attach L-shaped brackets (metal or wood) to each side of the ladder’s top frame. The horizontal leg of the L bracket pushes against the wall or surface. Some people in DIY forums suggest using 2″×2″ L-brackets with sheet-metal screws for small ladders.

Safety legs / extension arms

These are downward or outward arms from the ladder sides that act like outriggers. They may touch the ground or press against the wall, giving side stability. Commercial “ladder safety legs” are sold this way.

Rope or strap-based stabilizers

Not quite a rigid stabilizer, but you can run a strap from the top of the ladder to anchor points (roof hooks, eyelets, scaffolding). Helps prevent sideways drift. This technique is more of an auxiliary support.

Hybrid designs

You can combine, say, a cross-arm with outriggers, or an L-bracket plus strap. The goal: double redundancy. If one part yields, others still help.

Each approach has trade-offs in complexity, weight, and rigidity. I’ll walk you through a version that balances ease and safety.

Understanding Ladder Stabilizer Design Principles

Let’s dig a little deeper into the design science behind ladder stabilizers — because when you know why it works, you’ll build it better.

Weight Distribution and Balance

Every ladder acts like a lever. When you climb, your weight shifts the balance point upward, reducing ground stability.
A stabilizer works by spreading the weight load over a larger area, reducing lateral stress and preventing side-tipping.

A good design keeps your center of gravity aligned between the ladder’s side rails. If the stabilizer arms are uneven or too flexible, the load shifts unpredictably — and that’s where accidents happen.

Optimal Angle and Geometry

The ideal stabilizer design maintains the ladder’s recommended 75-degree working angle while giving you enough clearance from the wall or gutters.
A slight outward projection (12–18 inches from the wall) improves comfort and tool maneuvering.

If you make your own, consider adding an adjustable angle mechanism (using a hinge or pivot bolt) — that way, you can adapt the stabilizer to different surfaces or ladder angles.

Surface Contact Area

The stabilizer’s contact pads shouldn’t be tiny — the larger the contact surface, the better the friction.
You can even add textured rubber pads or grip tape to increase traction, especially on metal or painted walls.

Advanced DIY Stabilizer Ideas

If you love going the extra mile, these next-level concepts will turn your simple stabilizer into a multi-functional, pro-level tool.

Adjustable Arm Design

Imagine being able to adjust your stabilizer width for different ladders.
You can do this by:

Adding telescopic arms (using sliding square tubing and a locking bolt).
Using pin-lock holes like those found in gym equipment or scaffolding.

This gives you flexibility if you own more than one ladder size.

Folding or Detachable Mechanism

Storage is often a pain. You can design your stabilizer to fold flat or detach completely using wing nuts or quick-release pins.
It’s perfect for small garages or mobile contractors who need quick setup.

Integrated Tool Hook or Tray

How many times have you climbed up, only to realize your screwdriver is still on the ground?
Add a simple metal tray or hook to your stabilizer crossbar — it’s a small touch, but incredibly convenient.

Non-Metal Alternatives (Lightweight Versions)

If weight is a concern, consider:

PVC pipes (for light-duty stabilizers — not heavy ladders).
Hardwood beams or bamboo rods reinforced with metal plates.
Aluminum tubing (lighter but still strong).

Just remember — light materials save effort but must still support full body weight safely.

Testing and Load Validation

Let’s be real — testing your stabilizer before full use isn’t optional. It’s essential.

Ground-Level Stability Check

Before climbing, set your ladder on a flat surface and push side to side.
Your stabilizer should resist wobble, twist, or flexing.

If you notice movement:

Tighten all bolts.
Add cross-bracing.
Recheck for alignment — uneven angles cause instability.

Simulated Weight Test

Place sandbags or weights gradually on a ladder rung to simulate your weight.
This helps verify how the stabilizer holds under pressure before you risk climbing.

Safety Reassessment After Each Use

Over time, bolts loosen and materials fatigue.
So after every few uses, check:

Rubber grip condition.
Bolt tightness.
Signs of metal fatigue or cracks.

A good DIY stabilizer lasts years — if you treat it like a safety device, not just a tool.

Environmental and Situational Adaptations

Every environment poses different challenges. A good stabilizer can adapt to them all.

Uneven or Sloped Ground

If your ground isn’t flat, consider pairing your stabilizer with ladder levelers or DIY adjustable base legs.
Some DIYers use screw-in feet or pivoting base plates that auto-adjust to terrain.

Working Around Gutters and Eaves

If you do a lot of roof maintenance or gutter cleaning, add curved stabilizer arms that keep the ladder off the gutter while maintaining grip against the fascia.
You can even pad those curves with foam pool noodles or thick rubber sleeves.

Windy or Outdoor Work Conditions

In windy conditions, a stabilizer is only half the solution.

Use:

Rope tie-downs to anchor the ladder top.
Weighted bases or sandbags at the bottom.
Non-slip mats under each foot for concrete or tiles.

Even pros use multiple systems together — redundancy saves lives.

Step-by-Step: Building a DIY Ladder Stabilizer

Okay — the fun begins. Below is one approach (a cross-arm + side wings design). You can adapt it to your style.

Planning & measuring

Measure your ladder width — the distance between the two rails at the top. Let’s call this W.
Decide on the span (arm length) — the wings should ideally extend 6–12 inches beyond the ladder rails (or more for high towers). Too short, and benefit is low; too long, and bending moment increases.
Decide on vertical spacing — how far above the ladder top the bar should sit (often 6–12 in).
Sketch the parts: crossbar, wing arms, brackets, attachment points.
Choose your mounting scheme: bolted to the top rung frame, or welded to ladder rails, etc.

Example: Suppose top rail width is 14 in. You may design arms of 8 in on each side, making total crossbar span ~30 in.

Cutting & shaping parts

Cut the crossbar piece (steel tube or bar) to your desired span.
Cut the wing arms (left and right) to equal lengths.
If using angle iron brackets, cut them to attach arms to ladder rails vertically.
Deburr all edges, smooth corners, and test fit parts before final assembly.

Assembling the stabilizer arms

Attach wing arms to crossbar (weld or bolt). Use strong joints (preferably reinforce with gussets or backing plates).
If you’ve cut brackets, attach them so that the arms can mount to the ladder frame (top).
Place any hinges or adjustable joints (if you want folding wings).
Ensure symmetry — both arms must mirror exactly to avoid imbalance.

Attaching to the ladder

Align the stabilizer assembly with the top of the ladder; ensure the crossbar is parallel to the ladder’s top.
Mark bolt holes on the ladder’s rails or frame where your brackets will attach.
Pre-drill holes (if ladder frame allows) with suitable bit for bolts.
Bolt the stabilizer to the ladder: use washers and locknuts to reduce loosening.
If welding is your method, ensure the ladder material is weldable and that the ladder’s structure isn’t compromised. (Be cautious: you don’t want to weaken the ladder.)

When attaching, ensure there’s no binding or twisting, and that arms spread evenly and remain level.

Adding non-slip/contact pads

At each wing’s end, attach rubber pads or non-slip material. These pads provide grip when pressed against wall surfaces.
If the ladder is resting on delicate material (siding, gutters), use a softer bumper — e.g. foam or rubber — to avoid scratching.
Make sure the pads are thick and firm enough to bear load, but have small give to conform to slight imperfections in the wall.

Testing and adjusting

Lay the ladder flat on floor and test pressure: push side to side to feel resistance.
Raise it to a vertical position (on ground) and gently lean it to see how the stabilizer resists lateral movement.
Climb just one step and test for flex or movement.
If any movement is excessive, reinforce bracket connections or add bracing.
Check tightness of bolts after first use (vibrations can loosen things).
It’s smart to test under low heights before using it high up.

Once you feel confident, you can gradually try higher climbs. But always err on caution. The first climb with your own gadget always feels nerve-wracking, but that’s okay — that’s respect speaking.

Tips, Tricks & Best Practices

Here are additional bits of wisdom I picked up (and some from reviewing others’ mistakes):

Matching stabilizer width to ladder width

If your stabilizer is too narrow compared to ladder width, it won’t reduce torsion well. If it’s wildly wider, arms may bend or stress too much. I like aiming for arms 6–12 in beyond rails. For heavier loads, stay toward shorter extensions.

Rubber or foam padding to protect surfaces

If your stabilizer presses against siding, gutters, or brick, you don’t want to cause damage. Wrap the ends with rubber, bicycle inner tube, or adhesive rubber pads. Some DIYers also glue felt or silicone strips as a buffer.

Avoiding gutter damage

If your ladder leans on gutters, they may get crushed. A stabilizer helps because it pushes the ladder away so the gutter isn’t bearing weight. This is a major reason many pros use standoffs.

Regular inspection and maintenance

After each use, check bolts, pads, and signs of metal fatigue (cracks, bends).
Lubricate moving joints if present.
Replace worn rubber pads.
Store your stabilizer in a dry place to avoid rust or corrosion.
Periodically remove it and re-check alignment after many uses.

Actually, manufacturers often provide a “ladder stabilizer use guide” that mentions inspecting for cracks or damage in parts before use.

When to abandon and use a commercial one

If your DIY version:

feels too flexible or bouncy under weight
deforms under load
can’t be securely attached
is too heavy or bulky to manage
you feel unsafe using it

… then get a commercial stabilizer. Remember, a half-baked DIY can be worse than none at all, safety-wise.

Ladder Stabilizer Maintenance Guide

Building it is just half the job — keeping it safe is ongoing work.

Monthly Maintenance Routine

Inspect welds and bolts for corrosion or cracks.
Repaint or recoat metal parts to prevent rust.
Clean rubber pads with mild soap to keep grip effective.
Replace any worn-out hardware (bolts, nuts, washers).

Seasonal Adjustments

Temperature affects metal expansion and contraction.
During extreme cold or heat, check for loosened joints — thermal cycling can weaken even the best connections.

Storage Tips

Store your stabilizer in a dry, shaded area.
Hang it on a wall hook or keep it in a weatherproof box.
Avoid leaving it outside, where rain or moisture can corrode it over time.

Cost Analysis: DIY vs. Store-Bought

Let’s do a quick comparison — because money matters too.

Factor	DIY Stabilizer	Commercial Stabilizer
Cost	$15–$40 (based on materials)	$60–$150+
Customization	Fully customizable	Limited to manufacturer’s specs
Safety Testing	Must self-test	Professionally tested
Weight	Can be lighter	Often bulkier
Satisfaction	Immense — built by you!	Convenient but impersonal

If you’re confident in your craftsmanship, DIY wins for value and personalization.
But if you prefer plug-and-play simplicity or plan to climb very high, a commercial model might be worth the peace of mind.

Safety Considerations & Regulatory Guidance

This is not the “fun” part, but it’s critical. Doing a build doesn’t override safety rules. Take them seriously.

Relevant safety standards (e.g. OSHA)

In the U.S., OSHA mandates that ladders used on unstable or uneven surfaces be stabilized, secured, or with a person holding the base. Also, ladder safety accessory guides emphasize that stabilizers widen the base and help prevent tipping. Always conform to local regulations in your region (they may differ).

Conditions to avoid (wet, icy, windy)

Don’t use ladders in high winds — a gust can knock you off or destabilize your structure.
Rain, snow, or ice make surfaces slippery — not a good time for ladder work.
Wet walls (slick siding, freshly painted surfaces) reduce friction.
Avoid overreaching or leaning too far — your center of gravity must remain inside the ladder’s footprint.
Don’t overload — respect the ladder’s rated duty load (e.g. Type I, II, etc.).

Always visually inspect conditions before starting.

Securing ladder top and bottom

Even with a stabilizer, you should still secure the ladder:

Tie off the top rung to an anchor point (roof hook, scaffolding, eye bolt).
Use stakes or wedged boards at the base if on soft ground.
If someone can foot (hold) the ladder, that’s a plus.

A stabilizer helps, but it’s not a “set it and forget it” tool — engagement is still your job.

Behavioral practices (don’t overreach, etc.)

Move the ladder rather than leaning far sideways.
Always maintain three points of contact.
Carry tools in a belt or hoist — don’t hold them while climbing.
Climb slowly, carefully. Don’t exceed your comfort zone.
Before each use, check your stabilizer and ladder condition.

I’ll repeat — many ladder accidents happen not from major structural failures, but from overreach, slipping, or missteps at mid-height. A stabilizer helps but doesn’t replace good habits.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Building a Ladder Stabilizer

Even the most careful DIYers can slip up — here’s what not to do.

Using weak or cheap materials.
If it bends, warps, or rusts — it’s unsafe. Always choose quality steel, hardwood, or aluminum.
Overextending arms.
Longer doesn’t mean safer — arms beyond 12–14 inches can flex dangerously.
Ignoring bolt torque.
Loose bolts lead to wobble; overtightened bolts strip threads. Use lock nuts or washers to maintain tension.
Skipping load tests.
Never assume “it feels sturdy” is enough. Always weight-test before climbing.
Forgetting surface protection.
Bare metal pads can damage paint or siding — always use rubber or foam pads.
Not rechecking alignment after assembly.
Even a 1-inch tilt can throw your balance off at height.
Climbing before securing the base.
A stabilizer doesn’t excuse poor ladder setup — keep the base level and non-slippery.

Materials & Tools You’ll Need

Here’s what you’ll want on hand — gather everything before you begin so you don’t pause mid-build and lose momentum (or forget a critical piece).

Suggested materials

Steel tubing or bar (square or round) for arms or crossbar (e.g. ½” or ¾” steel pipe).
Angle iron or L-brackets (metal) for wing attachments.
Bolts, nuts, washers in suitable grade (e.g. grade 5 or better).
Rubber pads or non-slip grip tape for contact points.
Protective end caps or rubber bumpers (to avoid scratching siding).
Metal plates or backing plates for reinforcement.
Welding supplies (if you intend to weld).
Paint or rust-protection coating (e.g. primer + enamel).

If you prefer wood (for lighter loads), you can use treated hardwood or thick plywood, but metal is more durable and safer for heavy loads.

Tools checklist

Electric drill and bits
Saw (hacksaw, metal-cutting blade, or angle grinder)
Wrenches and sockets
File or deburring tool
Measuring tape
Square or level
Clamps
Safety gear (more on that below)
Optional: welder, angle grinder, bench vise

Safety gear

Safety goggles or face shield
Work gloves
Ear protection (if cutting metal)
Dust mask
Sturdy shoes or boots
A stable workbench or sawhorses

Before you start, double-check your workspace: good lighting, no tripping hazards, sturdy support for materials, and clearance.

Real-World Examples & Variations

To make things a bit more concrete, here are some real-world scenarios and adaptations.

A lightweight stabilizer for small ladders

If your ladder is short (6–10 ft), you don’t need beefy arms. Use lighter tubing, perhaps only 4–6 in wings, and clamps instead of bolts. The lower weight makes the stabilizer easier to manage, and you can detach it easily.

Heavy-duty version for tall extension ladders

For 20+ foot jobs, use thicker tubing (e.g. 1″ steel), add cross-bracing or triangulation, and maybe even a mid-level stabilizer part (partway down the ladder) to resist twisting. Use locking joints and ensure the ladder itself is rated for the weight.

Adaptations for uneven ground

If your base is on a slope or uneven surface, combine your stabilizer with ladder levelers (extendable legs at base). This ensures the bottom is level, while the stabilizer helps at the top. Commercial guides often pair stabilizers and levelers as safety accessories.

Stories / user experiences

One user forum thread discussed using L-brackets and sheet-metal screws to create wings at the top. Another shared experience was buying an aluminum 21.5-in stabilizer and how it prevented tipping and eliminated damage to gutters. Many users emphasize the psychological benefit — “I tried a stabilizer and never want to go without one.”

In my own experience, I built a cross-arm stabilizer and tested it at 10 ft on my house. The moment I felt zero wobble when shifting weight, I felt pure relief — that “you got this” confidence. That is the emotional payoff.

Real-World Scenarios Where a Stabilizer Makes a Difference

Let’s talk about moments where this DIY stabilizer shines — literally life-saving scenarios.

Painting Exterior Walls

You’ll get better reach and control without worrying about scraping gutters or tipping sideways.

Roof Repairs

A stabilizer prevents the ladder from sinking into roof shingles or sliding along the eaves.

Gutter Cleaning and Installation

Because the ladder sits a few inches away from the gutter, you won’t dent or bend it while working.

Tree Pruning or Hanging Lights

Stability lets you move more confidently while stretching sideways or adjusting decorations.

Pressure Washing or Exterior Cleaning

Wide arms reduce vibration from high-pressure hoses and help maintain your footing.

Bonus: DIY Ladder Safety Checklist

Before you climb, take 60 seconds to go through this mini checklist:

Ladder angle is at 75° (base 1 foot out for every 4 feet up).
Ground is solid, level, and non-slip.
Stabilizer bolts are tight and arms even.
Rubber pads are intact and clean.
Ladder rails are free of cracks or rust.
Weather conditions are calm.
You’re wearing proper shoes — no flip-flops!
Tools secured — nothing in your hands while climbing.
Three points of contact always maintained.

It takes just a minute — but it could save your life.

Building Confidence, One Ladder Step at a Time

So, here we are — you’ve learned how to design, build, and fine-tune your very own DIY ladder stabilizer, and hopefully, you’re already picturing how much safer and steadier your next climb will feel. Pretty empowering, right?

Think about it: not long ago, that same ladder might have made you hesitate — maybe your hands tightened around the rails, your heart raced a little, and you wondered if it might wobble just when you reached the top. But now? You’re the one who built the very thing that eliminates that fear. You’ve taken control of your safety, your tools, and your project — and that’s no small thing.

A ladder stabilizer might look like a simple add-on, but in truth, it’s a silent guardian. It stands between you and the potential for a dangerous fall, giving you that solid, reassuring balance you can trust. And when you craft it yourself — when you cut, bolt, measure, and test it with your own two hands — there’s a special pride in knowing that your safety system isn’t just functional; it’s personal.

The best part? You’ve gained more than just a stabilizer — you’ve gained confidence. That’s what DIY is all about: taking charge, learning something new, and creating practical solutions that make your daily life better. Whether you’re a weekend tinkerer or a full-time builder, this project reminds you that even small upgrades can make a big difference.

Before you pack up your tools, take one last look at your creation. It might not be flashy or high-tech, but it’s a product of your skill, patience, and care — a reminder that safety and craftsmanship go hand in hand. Every bolt you tightened, every angle you measured, every test you ran — all of it contributes to something invaluable: peace of mind.

So next time you set your ladder against the house, take that first step with confidence. Feel the steadiness, trust your work, and smile a little — because you built that security yourself. And that, my friend, is the true beauty of DIY: transforming simple materials into something that keeps you grounded, even when you’re reaching for new heights.

Please read more about the best ladder stabilizer.

FAQs

Can a DIY stabilizer be as safe as a commercial one?

Yes — if built well with good materials, proper design, and rigorous testing. But commercial ones have the advantage of testing, materials engineering, and warranties. If ever in doubt, use a trusted commercial unit.

How far should a stabilizer extend from the ladder?

A good rule is 6–12 inches beyond each side of the ladder’s rails. For heavier-duty ladders or taller climbs, you might go a bit longer, but ensure the arms remain stiff and non-flexing.

What surfaces require special pads?

Surfaces like siding, brick, stucco, wooden trim, gutters, and painted walls benefit from softer bumper materials (rubber, foam, felt) to avoid scratches or crushing. For bare masonry or concrete, thicker rubber pads are ideal to increase grip.

How often should I inspect/maintain it?

Inspect before every use. Check bolts, cracks, pad wear, and alignment. After ~10–20 uses, recheck tightness. If any deformation or fatigue appears, retire or repair it.

What if I can’t attach anything at the top of the ladder?

If you can’t bolt or anchor at the top, rely more on secure base footing, tie-off straps, or have a person hold the ladder. A stabilizer still helps, but you’ll need redundancy — e.g. extra ropes or supports.